The year of the Horse

If you were born in 1942, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1990 or, 2002 you are a horse. The first thing a horse must do in the new year is get your red underwear ready. Traditional Chinese believe that you must be cautious during the year as the spirits could take you from the earth. So to ward off any mishaps coming your way it helps to wear red all year-long. Underwear is the number one choice.

To help fund your undergarment purchases you may receive a red envelope. Red envelopes are generally given at social events like weddings and for the Chinese Lunar New Year. Everyone gets in on the action. The envelopes usually containing money are given to children, relatives, and close neighbors but you would also give one to your housekeeper, driver, laundress (yes, I have one – I don’t do laundry), gardener, hairdresser, you get the idea. The red color symbolizes good luck and is used to ward off evil spirits. The amount inside is also very important. Four is considered a very unlucky number (you will never see a 4th, 14th, 24th… floor in China) The number when pronounced sounds similar to the word for death. Eight is a very lucky number. 888 RMB would be a very nice gift.

Chinese New Year, or Spring festival, falls on January 31st this year and is considered the most important traditional chinese holiday. During this time people travel to be with their families and feast. During the first five days of the new year people eat long noodles to symbolize long life. On the 15th and final day of the celebration, round dumplings are shared as a sign of the family unit and of perfection. Fireworks are displayed each night and dragons made of silk, paper and bamboo dance through the streets. No one cleans on New Years day – you might sweep all the good fortune out the door. This is my kind of holiday.

If you happen to be a horse please note that the Chinese consider you popular, cheerful, skilled with money matters, hardworking, impatient, independent, intelligent and selfish.

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I’m In

On the far outskirts of town, I suited up along with several other foreigners. In our hospital gowns, we stood in a straight line. No one talked or broke a smile. We were each giving a chart and told to move from one room to the next. First stop – blood. As I sat in the hall, waiting my turn I observed the process. Come in, sit down, draw two vials of blood – next please. The only problem was the nurse only changed her gloves every fifth person. I needed a plan – I need fresh gloves. Should I switch seats and let a few people ahead of me or should I hope the nurse spoke some english. I was my turn. I was number 4. The english did not work but the hand gesturing did and without emotion she changed her gloves. I’m sure she thought I was crazy – maybe I was but I was happy to get my way.

Next, the dreaded chest X-ray. People that know me know that I am not keen on X-rays, who needs the radiation – well the technician did not see it my way and my negotiation skills were wasted on a non english speaking tech who could care less about my lofty disdain for the procedure. The eye exam, physical and ultra sound were uneventful and although listed on the chart as a required exam, I am happy to report no gender specific examinations were necessary.

I received my results about 3 weeks later – you will be all happy to know that I have no disease which is highly dangerous to public health. Step one – Health exam complete.

Step two – Marriage licence – The Chinese seem love stamps. Everything needs to be stamped and stamped again. Our attorney informed us we needed to take our original marriage certificate to the US embassy so that a sworn affidavit could be prepared and later translated to attest to the validity of our 25+ year marriage. Several lines, stamps and hours later we were done.

Last step – Spousal support statement. Yes, my better half was required to sign a document that he will take full financial responsibility for me. I’m not even going to comment on this one.

Passport photos, a few more trips to bureaucratic offices, more paper work and voila I’m in – Residency permit obtained allowing me to stay in China until December 2016.

Looks like I missed it

With an air quality index of 74 and the temperature pushing 50, I left the apartment in search of a wet market. Convinced that I had found the right spot, I made my way through a narrow ally into a large covered area. What I found was anything but wet. I was standing in the middle of one of Shanghai’s most famous cricket markets. Crickets have been beloved by the Chinese for a few thousand years or so. Even today, they are kept as pets for their song, used by framers to signal changes in the seasons and for sporting purposes. Cricket fighting season runs from August to October. Only male crickets flight or sing for that matter. Females on the other hand, are used to produce future fighters so the once they can no longer be bred, they are fed to other pets. What can I say, its tough being a women no matter what species you are.

A prized fighting cricket can go for $100’s of dollars. Men gather with their elite athletes, which by the way, are bred the night before the competition – apparently this makes them more aggressive. Two crickets are put in a shallow dish and tickled with a brush made from rat hair. Bets are taken and the winner of the best of 5 matches is hailed the champion. You will be happy to know, they no longer fight to the death. The loser is allowed to retreat, however based on his fighting ability, he may be fed to a bird later in the day. I’m not sure if I will attend a flight next season, but if you are interested, I am told cricket fighting is also popular in New York and Philly. Check you local listings.

Here is small selection of the crickets available for purchase.

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Waiting for my stuff

It’s been 37 days and still no stuff.   Thirty seven long days of wearing the same black pants, black button down and black sweater.  Of course I’m being dramatic, I do have a few dresses, plenty of underpinnings and shoes but the rest of the wardrobe, well its hard to say where it is right now.  I recently asked for an update and this is what I heard -” It’s the holidays –  your shipment left late, was bumped somewhere,  and were looking into that right now”.  It did finally made it to China on Dec 31st.  We are now at the mercy of the Chinese custom officials.  We hope that they will be able to process it before the Chinese New Year that occurs at the end of the month.  I have been told that the entire country shuts down for a week.   Keep your fingers crossed.

If it takes much longer I may need to do a little shopping.

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All is new in Shanghai

All is new in Shanghai.  In fact its hard to find things built before 1990.  It is the largest populated city in china and the largest city by population in the world with nearly 24 million people.  That’s a lot of people and a lot of buildings.  This is a model of the city.

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All is new for us too.  Everything is so different here, the culture, the food, the water and air quality.  It’s going to take some time to get use to it all.   We are looking forward to the adventure and cant wait to share it with you.