All posts by food traveler

That’s a lot of Warriors

At the age of 13 (in 246 BC) , Qin Shi Huang, the first emperor of China, began his mausoleum.  It took him 11 years to finish it.  The tomb included,  8,000 life-size warriors all with unique faces and bodies believed to be models of the actual warriors in his army, 130 chariots, 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses.

Discovered in 1976 by a farmer digging a well, the Terra Cotta Warriors and horse are truly amazing.  The farmer is still alive and sits at the archeological site most days with his book.  I met him and yes, I have his signature and book.

IMG_0737

This is pit 1,  there are 3 other main pits and many areas that have not been unearthed yet.

Each warrior was made in a government workshop.   Heads, arms, legs and toros were created separately then assembled.  Each warrior varied in height, uniform, and hairstyle in accordance with their rank.  Each was painted, provided a weapon and then placed  in a military formation according to rank and duty to surround the tomb of the emperor.

IMG_0759

We spent a long weekend in Xian,  which is about 900 miles north west of Shanghai.  Our guide told us it was a small city by China standards – only 6.5 million people.  In addition to the warriors, we visited the Big goose Pagoda, the bell tower,  and walked the city wall.

IMG_0766

The city wall surrounds the inner city and is the most complete wall to survive in the country.  It was built in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) and was renovated recently.  You can rent a bike and travel the 13.7 KM loop if you like.  It was very hot when we were there so we opted for a short walk and a cold drink.

IMG_0763

Not Fore Everyone

The game was banned in 1949 by Chairman Mao and no golf was played in China for the next 35 years.  Today there are about 400 courses in China compared to the 16,000 in the USA.  Construction of new courses was banned by the government in 2004 however many local developers have found ways to get around this restriction.  With demand high and supply short, golf is expensive, very expensive and to make matters worse, all of China’s golf courses seem to what to be the most expensive.  The leader is Sheshan Golf Club in Shanghai with an initiation fee of $240,000, and a very long waitlist.  A round of golf at a semi private course will set you back anywhere from $100 (a cow pasture at best) to $250+ at some of the nicer courses if you can even get on.  Remember there are over 1.4 billion people who live in China (300 million in the USA) and although the average annual wage is only $1,800 per year – Yes I said per year.  There are a lot of people who want to play golf albeit mainly successful businessmen, politicians and expats.

When you arrive at the course you are often greeted by members of the caddie staff.

IMG_0663

The vast majority of the caddies are women and they take their job very seriously.  They wear white glove and often large hats with big scarfs.  They do not want to be exposed to the sun.  They carry your bag, provide yardage and advice.  They even place your ball on the green and line up each and every put.  To keep them at their best most course require you to provide feed back.

IMG_0657

My caddies have all been good to perfect.  I’m not sure what happens to the ones rated as Commonly or Differences.

IMG_0489

Many of the courses, at least the ones that I play around Shanghai are built on swampy areas with narrow fairways lined by canals  and other obstacles.  They can be very frustrating for a high handicapper like myself.  I think my record is 9 lost balls.  Still and all its fun and  with the weather starting to cool down I’m looking forward to getting back out there.

 

Where’s the Truck?

There are millions of cars, cabs, buses, scooters and bikes in Shanghai.  Remarkable, considering it wasn’t until around 1992 that the masses starting purchasing and driving cars.  The trend caught on quickly and everyone has or wants a car now.   To control the number of cars on the road, the city of Shanghai only issues a limited amount of licenses plates each month and they don’t come cheep.  The going rate is fixed at $10,000.  That may seem like a lot until you find out that prior to 2012 they were auctioned off to the highest bidder.

As much as the car thing has taken off using a truck to delivery something has not.  The Chinese seem to love to transport things on bikes.  This guy is loaded down with plastic bottles.

IMG_0646

They use bikes to deliver the mail, packages, and items from the local home improvement store. This man is delivering hardwood flooring.

IMG_0512

And although no one seems to formally recycle here, people are always collecting cardboard, plastic and scrap metal.  Where it all goes, I have no idea.

IMG_0632

You see small shops and food stands on bikes, people selling flowers and balloons on bikes.  This guy has a drill press mounted to the back of his bike.

IMG_0637

I understand the number of cyclists in Shanghai has decreased over the past 15 to 20 years but the bike still appears to be the preferred method of delivery.

Not for the Faint Hearted

Each weekday morning I get my 10,000 steps by walking to a different area of the city.  Ohhhhh…… the things I have seen.  Let’s take the food markets for example.  They can often be found on a very narrow street lined with old apartment style dwellings that have survived the Shanghia city goverment ‘s demolition, at least thus far.

IMG_0236

Quarters are very cramped and sanitation conditions leave more than a little to be desired.  It’s not uncommon for someone caring a potty pot to bump into you on their way to  dispose of the families “business” from that morning.  In door plumbing is not aways available and many families live in one room of an multi room apartment.  This is a local toilet.  A nice one I may add.

IMG_0454

I digress.  Lets get back to the market.  Here is a great example of bird flu in the making.  I love how the live chicken looks on at his fallen comrades that were sacrificed for tonights dinner.

IMG_0504

Not interested in chicken – how about some sea food.  I see this man every morning shelling oysters, scallops and clams.  I have never seen ice or any form of refrigration for that mater – the water source is a garden hose and yes he is doing this on the sidewalk.

IMG_0475

If you are in the mood for duck.  It is easy to find one hanging around at your local butcher.

IMG_0477

Oh and don’t forget the parts inside – IMG_0478

Pork is a favorite here. Plywood, a few milk crates, a sharp knive and a pig is all you need to set up shop.  Touchingthe meat before you buy it seems to be encouraged.

IMG_0492

As much as I loved shopping the local markets in Paris – I think I’m going to stick with the westernized grocery stores for now.

All the Tea in China

IMG_0435

One of China’s most famous green teas is Long Jing (translated Dragon Well), and the renowned West Lake variety was just a day trip away. My journey began on a very modern high-speed train that dropped our group off at the Hangzhou rail station.  From there we pilled into a not so modern bus to the YangMeiLing tea village where Mr.Ying and his family welcomed us as honored guests.    We suitted up in our hats and grabbed our bakets and off we went to hike the terraces of the tea plantation.  We were only able to look – we were not skilled enough to pick.  It was interesting to note only the bud is picked from the bush in the spring time.  The season lasts a short 6 weeks or so.  The pickers , all women are paid the equivlatant of $15 a day to pick.  The work is hard and the days are long.

IMG_0436

Once the green tea buds are pick, they are lightly dried by a primative looking machine and then finished by hand in something that kind of looks like a big wok.  This work is only done by men in the confort of their garage.  The tea is highly prized for is smooth flavor and medicinal qualities.  We tasted serval green teas that day and I must say this tea was exceptional.

IMG_0448

The year of the Horse

If you were born in 1942, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1990 or, 2002 you are a horse. The first thing a horse must do in the new year is get your red underwear ready. Traditional Chinese believe that you must be cautious during the year as the spirits could take you from the earth. So to ward off any mishaps coming your way it helps to wear red all year-long. Underwear is the number one choice.

To help fund your undergarment purchases you may receive a red envelope. Red envelopes are generally given at social events like weddings and for the Chinese Lunar New Year. Everyone gets in on the action. The envelopes usually containing money are given to children, relatives, and close neighbors but you would also give one to your housekeeper, driver, laundress (yes, I have one – I don’t do laundry), gardener, hairdresser, you get the idea. The red color symbolizes good luck and is used to ward off evil spirits. The amount inside is also very important. Four is considered a very unlucky number (you will never see a 4th, 14th, 24th… floor in China) The number when pronounced sounds similar to the word for death. Eight is a very lucky number. 888 RMB would be a very nice gift.

Chinese New Year, or Spring festival, falls on January 31st this year and is considered the most important traditional chinese holiday. During this time people travel to be with their families and feast. During the first five days of the new year people eat long noodles to symbolize long life. On the 15th and final day of the celebration, round dumplings are shared as a sign of the family unit and of perfection. Fireworks are displayed each night and dragons made of silk, paper and bamboo dance through the streets. No one cleans on New Years day – you might sweep all the good fortune out the door. This is my kind of holiday.

If you happen to be a horse please note that the Chinese consider you popular, cheerful, skilled with money matters, hardworking, impatient, independent, intelligent and selfish.

IMG_0221

image

image

I’m In

On the far outskirts of town, I suited up along with several other foreigners. In our hospital gowns, we stood in a straight line. No one talked or broke a smile. We were each giving a chart and told to move from one room to the next. First stop – blood. As I sat in the hall, waiting my turn I observed the process. Come in, sit down, draw two vials of blood – next please. The only problem was the nurse only changed her gloves every fifth person. I needed a plan – I need fresh gloves. Should I switch seats and let a few people ahead of me or should I hope the nurse spoke some english. I was my turn. I was number 4. The english did not work but the hand gesturing did and without emotion she changed her gloves. I’m sure she thought I was crazy – maybe I was but I was happy to get my way.

Next, the dreaded chest X-ray. People that know me know that I am not keen on X-rays, who needs the radiation – well the technician did not see it my way and my negotiation skills were wasted on a non english speaking tech who could care less about my lofty disdain for the procedure. The eye exam, physical and ultra sound were uneventful and although listed on the chart as a required exam, I am happy to report no gender specific examinations were necessary.

I received my results about 3 weeks later – you will be all happy to know that I have no disease which is highly dangerous to public health. Step one – Health exam complete.

Step two – Marriage licence – The Chinese seem love stamps. Everything needs to be stamped and stamped again. Our attorney informed us we needed to take our original marriage certificate to the US embassy so that a sworn affidavit could be prepared and later translated to attest to the validity of our 25+ year marriage. Several lines, stamps and hours later we were done.

Last step – Spousal support statement. Yes, my better half was required to sign a document that he will take full financial responsibility for me. I’m not even going to comment on this one.

Passport photos, a few more trips to bureaucratic offices, more paper work and voila I’m in – Residency permit obtained allowing me to stay in China until December 2016.

Looks like I missed it

With an air quality index of 74 and the temperature pushing 50, I left the apartment in search of a wet market. Convinced that I had found the right spot, I made my way through a narrow ally into a large covered area. What I found was anything but wet. I was standing in the middle of one of Shanghai’s most famous cricket markets. Crickets have been beloved by the Chinese for a few thousand years or so. Even today, they are kept as pets for their song, used by framers to signal changes in the seasons and for sporting purposes. Cricket fighting season runs from August to October. Only male crickets flight or sing for that matter. Females on the other hand, are used to produce future fighters so the once they can no longer be bred, they are fed to other pets. What can I say, its tough being a women no matter what species you are.

A prized fighting cricket can go for $100’s of dollars. Men gather with their elite athletes, which by the way, are bred the night before the competition – apparently this makes them more aggressive. Two crickets are put in a shallow dish and tickled with a brush made from rat hair. Bets are taken and the winner of the best of 5 matches is hailed the champion. You will be happy to know, they no longer fight to the death. The loser is allowed to retreat, however based on his fighting ability, he may be fed to a bird later in the day. I’m not sure if I will attend a flight next season, but if you are interested, I am told cricket fighting is also popular in New York and Philly. Check you local listings.

Here is small selection of the crickets available for purchase.

IMG_0191

Waiting for my stuff

It’s been 37 days and still no stuff.   Thirty seven long days of wearing the same black pants, black button down and black sweater.  Of course I’m being dramatic, I do have a few dresses, plenty of underpinnings and shoes but the rest of the wardrobe, well its hard to say where it is right now.  I recently asked for an update and this is what I heard -” It’s the holidays –  your shipment left late, was bumped somewhere,  and were looking into that right now”.  It did finally made it to China on Dec 31st.  We are now at the mercy of the Chinese custom officials.  We hope that they will be able to process it before the Chinese New Year that occurs at the end of the month.  I have been told that the entire country shuts down for a week.   Keep your fingers crossed.

If it takes much longer I may need to do a little shopping.

IMG_0219

All is new in Shanghai

All is new in Shanghai.  In fact its hard to find things built before 1990.  It is the largest populated city in china and the largest city by population in the world with nearly 24 million people.  That’s a lot of people and a lot of buildings.  This is a model of the city.

IMG_0007

All is new for us too.  Everything is so different here, the culture, the food, the water and air quality.  It’s going to take some time to get use to it all.   We are looking forward to the adventure and cant wait to share it with you.